When we left home at 2 AM on 16 Sep 09, it was raining pretty calmly; not like the night before when it had poured like hell and flodded our Santro through the little gap in one of the rear windows which could not be closed because of a worn out window pane channel. Our neighbour had kindly offered to get us dropped at the airport by their driver in their Indica. When our two fairly big sized bags weighing 20 kg each, our daughter's foldable but large pram and two medium sized back packs fitted in neatly yet leaving adequate space for three of us and the driver, I got to appreciate the spaciousness of the Indica better. And the journey to the airport was smooth despite the heavy rain and the odd speed breaker that driver Bhanu could not discern and took us mildly flying over.
After taking a brief nap, Ira remained excited all throughout the drive, at the airport and thereafter in the airport as well. Sreshta's best efforts to make her sleep succeeded only when it was time to board the aircraft. But once inside the aircraft, she was awake again and eased herself before even the takeoff at about 7 AM. We washed her and got her into fresh diapers. But she continued being mostly cranky and noisy as she was sleep deprived. She did not sleep or eat anything and spilled juice over her jacket.
As we landed at Colombo she became better. She watched the entire touchdown and then at the airport remained playful but easy to handle for most parts, but that may be because of the open space at the airport. We had to do another diaper change. Then within quarter of an hour once again. But thereafter, she ate some dry cake pieces and a little poha followed by some milk. By then we had found a quiet and somewhat clean baby care room where we could make her sleep. There was a baby dressing platform where I took a nap while Sreshta tried to lie down elongated on the flat chairs outside in the transit lounge. After about an hour's rest, I was disturbed by some airport person's enquiry about what we were doing in the child care room. Though we could handle her queries, I lost my sleep thereafter and asked Sreshta to take a nap in the baby room instead. Another lady with a child wanted to use the baby room and Ira got disturbed and woke up. It was time to move to the boarding gated for our flight to London at 2 PM.
In the aircraft we exchanged our 32 A and C to same seats in row 50 by requesting the occupants of the latter. Despite that being an emergency exit, we could sit there for the entire 11 plus hours by trading off with the in-flight crew that we will sit elsewhere only for landing and takeoff. Flight was by and large fine but for Ira being uncomfortable sometimes. Food was ok, tried liquer and apperetifs (won't try again), had lots of juice/water thereafter.
16 Sep 09
Reached London, could easily take our luggage, go to the tube, take one to Holborn and another to St Paul's. We found the YHA pretty easily, very centrally located. Checked in and crashed.
17 Sep 09
Hop-on-hop-off on the Big Bus from St Paul's all the way to Hamleys, there Ira spent 2 hours plus playing with toys. Then we came to Trafalgar Sq, walked it to Big Ben, missed the last bus back home and walked the more than 2 miles back along North bank of Thames. Very tiring but not bad at all for the sights.
18 Sep 09
Next day it was the Big Bus to Tower bridge ferry point, ferry to Westminster, walk through Westminster, Buckingham palace, Green park, Harrods, Science Museum, then tube to British Museum, walk on Oxford Street, met telugu guy in grocery store and got a brief of his MBA and life thereafter in London, rode cycle rickshaw of Bangladeshi from there to Soho via Chinatown and all the good sights in and around Soho with him giving a brief of his life experience in London after another MBA, tried Satsuma and then another restaurant but did not find them convenient for Ira, then took tram to St Paul's reflecting on fate of brown skins in white land. I did laundry late night (very decent facility for very little price) and slept may be at 1 or so.
19 Sep 09
Packed all our stuff and were ready to leave by 10 AM. We also met up with our neighbours in the hostel Ben, his wife and three children. The youngest one Jack was particularly interesting and Ira wanted to play with him; so I took her to their room, chatted and interacted for a while. Later Sreshta changed places with me.
We left our luggage in the luggage room and went out with Ira in the pram. We had breakfast at Ossis express very close to YHA St Paul's; cost us 12 £ plus; we had been paying only 9 £ for both of us at YHA and gettting twice the quantity with as much quality. Then we briefly saw St Paul's Cathedral after which we walked and walked; first to millenium bridge, then along the south bank to Borough Market, then to Museum of London, and back to YHA. Great morning walking in London.
We then took our luggage, went down to the metro station at St Paul's but once there were not sure how to go to Baker's Street because there's no direct metro to there. So I waited with the luggage below while Sreshta went up to ask. She found out that we need to change at Oxford Circus; we did exactly that and reached the bus stop for easy bus at the junction of Marylebone and Gloucester. But we missed our bus of 3:48 PM by a few minutes. However there was no problem as the next bus took us without a problem to Luton airport.
The close to hour long journey was challenging with Ira not wanting to sit down. However, the drive along the excellent highways and neatly forested and fielded country side was pleasant. At the airport, we checked in and once again had problem with managing Ira. She finally slept inside the aircraft once it took off.
The 55 min flight got over soon and we reached Charles de Gaul airport in France by 9:30 PM. Our pram was broken at one place; so we did the formalities to lodge a request with the Easy Jet baggage counter at some other arrival (as baggage fellows attending to our flight had left) and moved to the RER station after buying tickets for 17 €. There we boarded a RER train for Chatelet les Halles which took about 30 mins. From this station to our hotel was a short 5 min walk which took us 10 mins because we came round about asking directions but what was difficult was coming up the endless number of escalators and stairs from the station platform to the road above as also getting our luggage through the very narrow entry gates. We discovered the lifts and the broad passages for the invalid (which are there adjacent to most escalators, be it in airports or metro stations) towards the later part of our sojourn in Europe.
Anyway, at the hotel we checked in and retired for the day by about 1 AM. Hotel Tiquitonne is quaint but comfortable; the best part is it is located very centrally so that we can do all the sights by walk.
20 Sep 09
I went out early morning to get some bread, milk, eggs and fruit for breakfast because our hotel would not give breakfast even on payment (for 6€) unless we intimated the previous night. I bought these stuff in a street market nearby but realised that it was Sunday as many shops were closed. Also, I started realising the difficulty of conversing with people in France as most of them do not know how to speak in English and bulk of the others are adamant not to speak English. All of us sat on the bed and had our breakfast in the room. But we had to call for hot water and get the eggs boiled. The hotel fellows gave semi-boiled eggs and boiling hot water (in our water bottle and shrunk it in half- they had no vessel in which to give the hot water). Our difficulties in France were slowly growing more apparent. Ira slept after a lot of play, easing herself a few times, bathing and a few morsels of food; that too Sreshta had to rock her for long. Finally we got ready to step out to see Paris by 10:30; that city which I have been reading about since 1990 and wanting to have a look and feel.
We walked from the hotel first to the Bureau de Poste (Post Office) to exchange some Travelers' Cheques for Euros. Although it was Sunday, we were told by the hotel staff that it will be open. Open it was but it would exchange currency only on weekdays. We used the opportunity to post a complaint letter to Easy Jet to seek compensation against the broken part of the pram and broken leg of luggage bag. Before that we had passed by a old and pretty church outside which was some curious stone sculpture - a bust with full hands lying by its side on ground. From the post office we walked by the commerce center to a nice park on the way to Notre Dame; we realised that this park was adjacent to the same stone sculpture, with the church to the other side. But we had reached it in a very circuitous manner because we were looking for a grocery supermarket called Franprix (we found it but it was closed as it operated for shorter hours on Sunday).
At the park we met some Vietnamese students who appreciated Ira and gave us tips about decent Asian food in Paris. Then we reached Notre Dame, saw it from the outside, walked along the Seine river, crossed to the other bank on Pont Neuf where Irs lounged on one of the side sittings, picked up a souvenir and walked back to Notre Dame. Ira played in a sand park on the way. At the information booth near Notre Dame, we wanted to buy hop on hop off bus tickets to see the sights but their credit card machine was not working and they wanted a few minutes to reboot their computer. As credit card transaction would invite 3.5% charge and we were out of Euro cash having paid close to full to our hotel for all the 3 nights of stay with them, we went looking for a travelers cheque exchange which the information booth people said was close by on the other bank of Seine. But on going there we found that they will charge 5 to 8% commission and American Express whose travelers' cheques we were carrying does not have an office there. So we exchanged 100€ for 95 and then looked for an eating joint; we even sat in one but Ira was uncomfortable to sit so we had to leave.
We went back, bought the hop on hop off tickets at about 6 PM using credit cards and headed for the green circuit which covers the main sights. The plan was to do the main route on 20th and do all the four green, blue, yellow and orange on 21st. But green and blue had the same stop and we boarded a blue thinking it was green. So we ended up unsatisfied; to top it up we finished the day with some authentic but utterly distasteful dinner in a river side restaurant recommended by Lonely Plant. Ira was very cranky because of lack of rest and slept in our arms on the way back. It was a long walk via the Pompidour and we picked up some fruits and milk at a grocery shop too.
21 Sep 09
We got breakfast as we had ordered the previous night but it was only bread, butter, jam and coffee. We really lost all respect for the French thereafter. We managed to make the most of that breakfast and whatever else we had with us; fed Ira whatever she would eat and started early as we had already bought the tickets and they would expire on 21st.
We walked to Louvre, saw it from outside, boarded the green circuit and got down at the open tour office to get the correct date stamped in our ticket as the driver the previous evening had written 20th on the ticket (unknown to me may be when I showed him on boarding) erroneously. We did that and next went in search of a grocery shop to buy milk for Ira. We found a restaurant where the attendant offered a bottle of free milk and pointed us to a Franprix nearby. There Sreshta bought a lot of supplies to last us for the next few days as we were going to stay in a hotel near Disneyland in the middle of nowhere. With all of some 20 kgs supplies loaded and no pram today, we did the yellow circuit, used green to go from yellow to orange, did the orange to a point from where we could walk to Eiffel tower. Long walk with loads but Ira got to play in a park enroute and at the sand park near Eiffel. We did not find Eiffel great or romantic but a huge pile of metal made to stand using good engineering skills. We boarded the last green bus and thought it would take us to Notre Dame from where we could walk to our hotel but it stopped for the day at Opera near the Open Tour office and we had to buy a metro ticket to reach home; on hind sight we realised we could have walked it. Sreshta and Ira slept; I packed everything so that we could leave without much work the next morning.
22 Sep 09
We left the hotel by 9 and took a metro to the station at Disney Land. We left the pram outside our starting station as its wheels had started coming out and Ira was not using it much; it was one more piece of luggage. From the station, we took the free shuttle service of the hotel to reach our 4 star hotel Magic Circus. We found it real cozy and nice; also high quality and spacious. We realised the previous one was rather cramped and very minimal; although very centrally located. We quickly checked in, took one bag already packed with essentials required for the day and took the free shuttle to Disneyland.
The Disneyland complex comprises of the studio which has rides and shows with the theme of Disney characters and movies/TV programs, the park which has bigger rides and other Disney shows and the village which has shops and restaurants. There are plenty of shops and restaurants in both the studio and the park as well; both centrally located as also shops with ride/show specific themes located strategically next to the ride/show. The concept it to make you spend; basically.
We did most of the rides and shows of studio and some of the park on 22nd. While returning, we had a look into the village and found some boys from Punjab selling Jallandhar/Ludhianna manufactured fiber Eiffel and other souvenirs in the open are outside the Disneyland complex. One of them gifted a key chain with a small metallic Eiffel to Ira which she promptly lost with in the next 5 or 10 minutes.
23 Sep 09
We did rest of the park and watched the parades on both sides. We managed to do twice each on the two best rides for adults as well as on the one for children which Ira liked. We missed out a few rides and many shows but they were not very compelling and in two days one can only do as much.
After returning, we celebrated my birthday with wine (the same bottle running from the last few days) and all the food that has been accumulating from here and there. Ira ate well and slept after playing in the ball room of the hotel. We used the nice tub in the hotel room and called it a day; tomorrow is another day in another country, Belgium.
24 Sep 09
For a change we woke up much in advance, at 6 AM, to get prepared to board our train at 10:25; and that saved the day for us. We managed to get in to the Thalys superfast train from Paris to Brussels just a minute or so prior to its departure. First we took time to pack our bags at the Magic Circus hotel near Disneyland and were down for breakfast only close to 8 AM. By the time we finished breakfast and took the free shuttle bus to the train station near Disney, it was close to 9 AM. The train from Disneyland to Chatelet les Halles made us wait for close to quarter of an hour during which we chatted up a local black man working in Disney's accounting services department; he opened our eyes to how trains in France also ran late, although in minutes than hours. The journey of 40 minutes, change of train and journey to Gare du North for 10 more minutes made it 1015 and we sought directions and ran to Thalys, and made it JIT.
Thalys is a little too much of hype; it's a decently designed train with bus like and comfortable sitting arrangements, thats all. We saw the beautiful country side and reached Belgium at 11:30. The walk to our Brugel youth hostel was almost close to half hour and gave us the opportunity to see the not so interesting city scape of Brussels. Cluttered and sometimes stinky neighbourhoods; tram lines making things more clumsy and roads cobbled and thus rough.
After reaching the youth hostel at Brugel, we could not check in till 2 PM as per their rules. Dead tired though we were, we had to while away an hour or so looking around nearby areas and with our full luggage (we had the choice of keeping the luggage in their cloak room for 2 € per piece). We saw the old church nearby, ate potato fries (that's one of the most common things folks there eat) and successfully kept Ira busy although she was also very tired and so cranky.
Once we checked in to our room with double decker bunk beds, we just crashed for close to two hours trying Ira also to sleep but the changes were just too much for her so she could not sleep, as a result we also could not but at least we could stretched our backs. Four onwards we saw the sights in the city on walk and Ira decided to go to sleep exactly a few minutes after we started walking. We had left her pram at Paris, so we saw Brussels on the walk with Ira on the shoulder. By about 5:30 we reached the Central Place where we bought some Chinese fried rice for 10€ to feed Ira. We also saw the famous Mannekin Pis (little boy pissing); it's literally a little boy (2-3 ft) perched on a platform in a non-descript square 2 blocks from the main square. We walked back to the hostel to refer to the Lonely Planet on the recommended places to eat and buy chocolates. Leaving Sreshta and Ira at the hostel, I had to run to a grocery supermarket to buy fruits and milk before it closed at 8 and made it in time; I also found some Belgian chocolates there and bought them as well besides a large quantity of fruits, some milk and a bottle of wine (for the last I consulted a local gentleman but later on tasting I realised I should have gone by my gut feeling).
We headed back to the main square by 9 PM, found the recommended food joint not serving anything vegetarian/eatable and discarded that and went in for an ice cream cone elsewhere. Back in the room we crashed by midnight or so with an alarm at 5:30 next morning.
25 Sep 09
Woke up 05:30, packed everything and got ready by 0700 to take breakfast items from the pantry and rush to catch 07:20 bus from nearby stop to Central Station so that we can be on time for our 7:52 Thalys to Amsterdam. I did not have change more than some 3 odd € and the driver did not have change for 50€; so we had a free ride to station, the only one in our entire trip. (Earlier I had found 30€ falling from a European woman's purse and picked it up to handover to her while she did not notice that her money had fallen; had I not given that would have been free 30€ ...)
Thalys to Amsterdam was more than 2 hours, Ira was even more difficult than the previous Thalys with big jobs in the train etc but we managed somehow. At Amsterdam, we took two 24 hour open tram/bus ticket for 7€ each and used it first to take a tram to Leidsplein to go to our hotel Flying Pig located at Zandpad nearby. Hotel folks said we could not stay as we had a small baby (it would get noisy/dirty etc and guests smoke heavy weed which is harmful) and refunded our 5% advance which we had paid on the net to do the reservation. Luckily we had an alternate booking for a family room at the adjacent Vondelpark youth hostel, so we had no problem going there and claiming our room. There too we were not supposed to check in till 2 PM but folks relented to our request of feeding the baby and permitted us to occupy from before 1 PM.
We rested till beyond 3 PM and then took the tram to explore the city. We saw the Reijk Museum nearby (from outside) and the park adjacent to it with I Amsterdam icon there, Ira played in the baby park and got real dirty. Then we went to Dam Square and saw some street artists performing nice stunts. Ira ate nicely sitting at Dam Sq and then we went looking for the famous Red Light district. Found it after some asking for directions and once again realised that it was over hyped. Had noodles and rice in a value for money Chinese restaurant near there and returned to the hostel after doing a round on tram no 10 in the not so well lit city. We had some wine and slept again by 1 AM or so. I woke up at 7:30 AM and took a hungry Ira for the buffet breakfast in the youth hostel. She ate well and did not trouble me while I ate my breakfast. Back to the room and now we all got ready. Then Sreshta went to have breakfast and I packed our stuff with Ira helping.
We checked out at 11:00 plus, Sreshta got a wooden shoe fridge magnet as souvenir on the way and we headed by tram to flower market. Had a look and went to Central Station, took another train to Schipol airport. At Schipol we shopped for chocolates for all, some perfumes for Sreshta and a pair of polaroid sun glasses for me.
We then boarded our Easy Jet flight to Gatwick airport in the London suburbs and Ira eased herself just before boarding but slept soon after being cleaned. At Gatwick, we had to buy 39£ bus tickets to Heathrow terminal no 5 near where we had reserved in Hotel Travelodge for a planned night halt so that we can board our return flight from Heathrow to Colombo to Bangalore the next day morning. Bus journey was good with beautiful British country side in passing view. There was surprise at Terminal 5; we had to pay another 8£ for the shuttle bus from there to our hotel; it was the only way to reach the hotel and the service was once in 30 minutes. But the good part was Ira enjoyed a lot at the magic fountains at Terminal 5.
At Travelodge, we had nothing to do because it is in the middle of nowhere. So after two cups of coffee machine tea/coffee, I was lying in the tub for long recapitulating the past few days. Sreshta has given Ira a bath along with herself and made her sleep. We went down with Ira sleeping on my shoulder to find out the bus schedule for next morning's trip to airport (Travelodge does not provide phones in the rooms), had dinner of the lots of eatable things we were carrying and called it a day.
That was the Europe trip as far as events are concerned. Sreshta has a lot to say about what it meant and what all we learnt from the entire experience of booking our trip by ourselves, doing the visas, travelling through the airlines, trains, buses and getting to know about the places, their people and practices. She will write a subsequent travelogue to cover these aspects. Here are a few off the cuff recommendations:
1. It's not recommended to choose an international flight before 9 AM because one has to wake up before 4 to make it. Our's was at 4:45 and we had to leave home at 1 AM; so could sleep only for 90 mins.
2. Taking direct flights may be a little expensive but it evens out if you consider the time wasted taking a detour. Our Srilankan airlines flight would make us spend almost 8 hours extra because of the 2 hours from Blr to Colombo and 6 hours wait there.
3. Return flights may be cheaper compared to single way open jaw tickets but they force you to come back to the same place even if you have no need to do that. We fly Blr-Colombo-London and same route back. That was 48k. But it makes us take a flight to London from Amsterdam, take local transport from and to airport as also stay overnight at a highway hotel. Thats some 220 GBP or 20K. With that added to 48k and may be a little more, we could have done Blr-Lon and Ams-Blr on BA and Lufthansa.
Bon Voyage et bonne chance!